Thursday, February 14, 2008

Let them eat....Entraña


Drunk.
Entraña is an Argentinean cut of beef. Very rare in UK but now easily found in Spain. It comes from the inside of the ribs and there is thin entraña and fat entraña. Gimme fat. Anytime. It is scorned upon in much the same way oysters were, monkfish was and mackerel still is. Public opinion is great cos it means we can still get really good things at a normal cost cos public opinion says its rubbish.
Entraña is best grilled and rested . It isnt the most tender cut but we are carnivores and we are supposed to chew. To masticate. That's what our molars are for. Not for chewing gum. And our incisors are for ripping that flesh away.
It needs to be grilled rare and then rested for a minimum of 15 minutes. Then it really loosens up. The flavour is dark and bloody and because it is a long piece of meat you get better chunks. You dont really get sirloin this thick. When you slice it cut across the grain.
I dont know the English name and cant find it. In French I believe it is onglet but am not at all sure.
I made a green sauce with Colman's English mustard instead of Dijon (Spider Dijon). Good kick to help with the chewing. Mustard, capers, anchovies, gherkins, cider vinegar, olive oil, parsley, chives
They had this with a warm potato salad with green beans, Brebis (a flat, square goat's cheese but similar in flavour and texture to brie), Veigadarte (superb, unusual, artesan soft goat's cheese from Leon going under the guise of queso fresco but quite unlike any other queso fresco I have tried), olive oil, salt, chives and parsley.
Boil the potatoes (reds) in their skins. Peel when just cool enough to handle. Boil green flat beans (perona) sliced thinnish on the diagonal, drain and add to the potatoes. Add the rest and mix. Double good.

1 comments:

Ben Crawshaw said...

Oh boy that entraña.

That one bite I had at that place in saint gerts was fantastic.

Then you made me an entraña sandwich with that beef stock you'd been treasuring.

And that's it. My history of eating that little known cut.

I want more.