On the strength of the garlic flowers yesterday I decided to do steak, potatoes, rocket, tarragon oil and wild garlic flowers for lunch. The first time I had steak like this (without the garlic flowers) was at the Eagle in Farringdon some time ago. I was completely blown away by it. Rare steak rested for a minimum of 15 minutes sliced over warm boiled potatoes and rocket and finished with tarragon oil. A sort of poor man's steak frites with Bernaise sauce. Poorer possibly but in no way inferior. The addition of the garlic flowers is unnecessary but not wanton.
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Let them eat....Entaña with wild garlic flowers
On the strength of the garlic flowers yesterday I decided to do steak, potatoes, rocket, tarragon oil and wild garlic flowers for lunch. The first time I had steak like this (without the garlic flowers) was at the Eagle in Farringdon some time ago. I was completely blown away by it. Rare steak rested for a minimum of 15 minutes sliced over warm boiled potatoes and rocket and finished with tarragon oil. A sort of poor man's steak frites with Bernaise sauce. Poorer possibly but in no way inferior. The addition of the garlic flowers is unnecessary but not wanton.
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Let Ibiza eat....Squid and saffron risotto
Monday, February 25, 2008
Calçots - from la Grande Bouffe Catering Ibiza
Calçots
Where to begin? Calçots, coming form the word calçat meaning shoe, are a Catatlan obsession. You only need to drive round Catalunya at this time of year to see the popularity of these glorified spring onions.There are signs for them everywhere. Everywhere. Glorified? Yes. But with good reason. Them is awful good.
What are they? They are spring onions that are left in the ground past the normal cropping time and as the shoot grows the almost certainly chain smoking farmer covers it with earth so the stem gets whiter and longer. So this goes on until it is closer in size to a leek than a spring onion.
One of the great things about living in Spain is they celebrate life. When it is the Saint’s day of the village they have a week of parties with massive paellas for hundreds of people, appalling live acts, great live acts, local dances and loads of eating, drinking, kids running around and they finish off the week's celebrations with half the local government's budget going up in smoke in hugely over the top fireworks displays.They have pig killings where the whole family and neighbours get together to kill the fatten pig and then turn the whole animal into sausages. When a fish runs through the local waters at a particular time of the year they are to be seen on every menu. Valencia nearly burns itself to the ground every year. Bull running.
Calçot time is no exception. Large numbers of people get together, light fires, make sauces, get their bibs on and gorge. Some places specially built for calçot gourging have troughs in the latrines instead of hand basins cos it is such a messy business. They are so messy because the calçots are actually placed in the fire so the outside becomes burnt and you have to hold on to it to get the inside prize bit out. Once out, you stick it in the Calçot sauce, tip your head back and lower the thing in. So you get your hands filthy handling the calçot and your face and chest filthy with the sauce dropping all down you as you try to get the calçot into your mouth.
When they are burnt enough they are wrapped in newspaper to let the steam finish the cooking and then they are served in roofing tiles. In the words of that black guy who gets shot at the beginning of Warriors – “CAN YOU DIG IT?’ A roofing tile as a plate – now that is style.
The sauce is a version of Romesco and much blood is spilt every year in arguments over who makes the best sauce. Fortunately I’m good with a knife.There is a place in Catalunya that has a competion each year for the best sauce. The funny thing about this competion is you are only allowed to use specific ingredients. There is no room for artistic/culinary interpretation and mixing of ingredients. Good thing probably, given the horrors that are produced when chefs decide to get ‘creative.’
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Let them eat....My wife
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Let them eat....Quails in the Wilderness
Exodus Ch 16 v 13 So it came about at evening that the quails came up and covered the camp, and in the morning there was a layer of dew around the camp.
Yeah yeah, sure but then what?
Exodus Uncut – And then the children of Isreal went out and found sticks and fire wood and laid a fire. God said unto Moses “Wait until the wood has burnt out its flames and is glowing red and then barbecue the quails on kebabs sticks until crisp on the outside and succulent within. Serve this with Allioli as I have instructed you.”
If its good enough for Moses and the Israelites then its good enough for staff lunch.
We had it with Allioli of course but also oven potatoes and leeks that had been steamed then griddled. Superb.
Keywords: Ibiza Catering Weddings
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Let them eat....Fish soup with rouille
Rouille is very similar to Aïoli but with added ingredients. The classic Nicoise version is garlic, olive oil, egg yolk, salt, cayenne and saffron and is the sauce served with Bouillabaisse. My version today had those things plus anchovy, lemon juice and zest, ñora pepper and guindilla (tiny little dried chillis). If you are a purist feel free to hunt me down and kill me. You put a large spoonful of it on your crostini and in your soup and you stir and you love it.
Fish Soup: For 6 (Make double as it freezes real good)
2 onion chopped
2 carrot chopped
1 leek chopped
3 sticks celery chopped
sprig 'o' thyme
bay leaf
toasted saffron
1 star aniseed
olive oil
bit of butter
Sweat these mothers together with lid on till them awful soft and starting to brown.
500 g shell on (ultra important) frozen prawns.
75g tomato puree
Turn up the heat and add these and brown further
splash 'o' brandy
splash 'o' Noilly PRAT
splash 'o' Pastis
On full volume add these, ignite and cook out
good drink 'o' white wine
1 tin 'o' chopped toms
Reduce heat to medium. Add these and cook down a bit
2 litres liquid preferably fish stock
Add these. Bring to boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 20 mins. Puree with a handwhizzer (Braun 600 watt with metal stem is excellent as are ALL the attachments) and pour through sieve using handwhizzer to help it through. Be sure to use a high sided container in which to pass the puree through the sieve, as this can be messy. Season and voila.
Optional - further fish and shellfish to be poached at the end just before serving. Monkfish and really big nice fresh prawns is good.
Above is a photo of Rouille. Make as Allioli (Catalan version of Aïoli, see recipix) but add saffron et al at the beginning with the garlic.
Croutons - slice good rustic bread thin and lay on baking tray. Lightly oil (olive of course) them and bake at 125ºC for 20 mins.
Dessert: Orange caramel upside down cake. Think - the B52s track Cake off Mesopotamia
Monday, February 18, 2008
Let them eat....something
The music installation people arrived today. There are 4 of them and they will be staying for 3 weeks. That is a hell of a sound system they are putting in. 4 of them. 3 weeks. Ibiza.
Today was one of those getting going days. Not very inspiring, though lentil salad was delicious.
The menu:
Sweet potato falafels with yoghurt and coriander
Grilled leg of lamb
Steamed carrots and broccoli
Puy lentil salad
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Friday, February 15, 2008
Let them eat....Baked Ratatwat
The film Ratatouille is an utter travesty. The premise is absolutely revolting. I dont give a good goddamn about how well it is made, its attention to detail its blahblahblah. It is disgusting. A fucking rat in a kitchen. Who the fuck thought of that? "Hey, I've got a great idea for a movie. You know the word ratatouille has got the word rat in it? Well, we make a film about a rat that is also a chef." Jesus Christ. "Hey, you know the word tenuous? Well, we take out all the letters and put in some new ones and come up with TWAT." Christ.
Anyway.....
Lunch. Spag bog. Except I didnt have any spaghettis so used penne. For me the trick of so many dishes is cooking the onions long enough before putting in the other ingredients. Lid on. Sweat sweat sweat. Till nice and brown and sweet and soft. So did this with the onions, garlic and some rosemary. For about an hour. This is not a long time, this is minimum. They can take all the sweating you can give them. Add meat and cook out until ALL liquid has evaporated. The better quality meat, the less time this will take due to the animal not being pumped full of water and crap to increase body weight. Then add wine, white or red, and cook that out until almost all gone too. Then add chopped tomatoes, bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer for 3 hours if you can. You can add some tomato puree (more on this another time) which seems to take it to another level of intensity.
Cook penne as per instructions, drain, then "grated cheese, if required, should always be sprinkled on the pasta before the sauce." This from The Silver Spoon p 287. So I did just that and a bit "o" beurre too cos couldnt resist. Dish in itself. You could very easily just put the sauce away and use another time. But I didnt, I stirred in some sauce and it was delicious.
That cheese into pasta first was news to me when I first read The Silver Spoon but goddamned if the Eye-ties werent right.
Oh yeah and now for the ratatouille. Try saying "ratta twatta twatta twatta, twatta touille" Once you get the hang of it it rolls of the tongue nicely.
I made a chocolate cake for pudding. Yesterday I roasted some organic hazelnuts specifically for a cake today. One of the now jobless staff "lost" them. "Lost" them in his mouth. So I had to improvise. God arent I great? Yeah. So I made a cake with almonds instead of hazelnuts and used them to take the place of the flour. I have been meaning to try this for a dog's age. Really good. Much more fragile than with flour so beware but worth it.
5 eggs and 100g sugar whisked to a ribbon. Fold in 100g ground almonds then 200g chocolate and 100g beurre melted together in microwave at half power for 2 minutes, stirred, then a further minute. I love this method of melting chocolate. If anyone tells you microwaves give you cancer ask them if they drink Diet Coke. The chances are they will say yes so you can tell them to shut up and stop talking such shit.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Let them eat....Entraña
Drunk.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Let them eat....Thai curry
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Let them eat.....Hearty soup with Phat Pappardell
Better day today. I gave them gravadlax (again), and then a really big soup with cabbage, beans, bacon with homemade pasta and rough croutons.
Monday, February 11, 2008
Let them eat.....who cares?
Bad day today. Long time man feels bad. Can't write nothing worth reading so here is a recipix. St Valentines Massacre Day coming soon so clean your shooter. Apparently this is what the victims ate before the Big Adios.
Sunday, February 10, 2008
Sunday morning coming down
Yeah right. I wish. Sunday morning marinating chickens more like. But for a good reason. Was invited to go see Robbie's new bit of land with shack that will be converted into a palace fairly soon. The weather has been spectacular recently so had a barbecue. Had meats and stuff but the real revelation was grilled leeks with salt, pepper and olive oil twice wrapped in a silver foil with a little water inside. Basically steamed leeks of course but oh man so sweet and the bbqiness comes through to a point. It goes without saying that it has to do with the superb quality of the leeks from Can Paradas, the island's main organic producer. They are small, they are sweet, they are tender.
Friday, February 8, 2008
Let them eat....Alfredo Garcia
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Let Them Eat......Chicken Pie
Chicken and leek pie with lard pastry crust. Man oh man oh man oh man. God I love it.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Let them eat.....red mullet - Staff Food in Ibiza
Monday, February 4, 2008
Let them eat.....cauliflower soup - Staff Food in Ibiza PLUS recipix
A total coup today. My culinary day began by finding cochinillo (little darling baby pig) at €20 a piece in my local butcher. I bought one for me and the boys and ordered 2 for wednesday for the staff. I am trying not to think about how it is possible to have such a thing at such a price. I also got a couple of legs of lamb for today. Boned them. If you know what I mean. Anyway..........they also had the new De Cecco Specialità Regionali pasta back in stock. It comes in packaging like the pappardelle but is not egg pasta. This pasta is out there. Dark blue. In boxes. Find it.